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Freezer Repair

do not frequent the supermarket. They are especially useful in homes with smaller

refrigerators or refrigerators having only an ice cube tray compartment. Home

freezers come in chest and upright models. Two designs of upright models are available on

the market today: manual defrost and automatic defrost. Home freezers are available with

wire shelves and baskets, and with storage shelves on the doors in upright models.

The sealed system in the freezer operates the same as the refrigerator/freezer models

(see Chapter 25). The only difference is temperature. The domestic freezer operates at a

colder temperature. The reason for colder temperatures is to maintain food preservation for

a longer period of time.

This chapter covers the electrical components only and how to diagnose the sealed system.

The actual repair or replacement of any sealed-system component is not included in this

chapter. It is recommended that you acquire refrigerant certification (or call an authorized

service company) to repair or replace any sealed-system component. The refrigerant in the

sealed system must be recovered properly according to Environmental Protection Agency

(EPA) guidelines.

Upright Freezers

Upright freezers are similar to refrigerator/freezers in design and operation. They share

some of the same features:

Figure 26-1 illustrates the refrigerant flow on this type of manually defrosted upright

freezer. The condenser coils are embedded between the cabinet liners and are secured to the

961

CHAPTER

inside wall of the outer cabinet. This provides for even heat removal and it eliminates the

need for a condenser fan motor.

air ducts. The evaporator coil is mounted on the inside back wall of the inner liner. Figure 26-2

illustrates the airflow pattern in an upright automatic-defrost freezer. Figure 26-3 illustrates

the refrigerant flow in this type of upright freezer.

FIGURE 26-3

The refrigerant low of

an upright automaticdefrost

freezer.

Drier

Compressor

Pre-cooler

condenser

Suction line

Discharge line

Heat

exchanger

Yoder

loop

Evaporator

Condenser

Compressor

Suction line

Yoder Discharge line

loop

Heat

exchanger

Evaporator

Condenser

Drier

Solid freezer

drawer

Evaporator

coil

Evaporator

fan motor

Inner door

liner with

shelves

manual defrost.

automatic-defrost freezer.

PART VI

To diagnose and repair the upright freezer, consult the troubleshooting and the repair

procedures sections of this chapter.

Chest Freezers

The chest freezer (Figure 26-4) has the evaporator coils and the condenser coils embedded

between the inner liner and the outer cabinet. These coils are inaccessible for replacement or

repair if a refrigerant leak occurs. The differences between the upright freezer and the chest

freezer are:

have a power indicator light. This light stays on as long as the freezer is plugged

into the wall receptacle. The light alerts the consumer when the power to the freezer

is off, but it does not tell you what the temperature is inside the cabinet.

Chest freezers must be defrosted once or twice a year to remove the ice buildup from

the inside. To gain access to the components, remove the side access panel (Figure 26-5).

Today some manufacturers have designed chest freezers with an automatic defrost

feature similar to upright freezers.

Gasket

Compressor

Temperature

control

Compressor

compartment

cover

Compressor mountings

Terminal

cover

Power

indicator light

Condenser coils

Evaporator coils

Breaker strip

Hinge

Freezer Storage and Temperatures

Storing and preserving food in a freezer is a great way to maintain the quality, freshness,

and nutritional value of food products. The recommended freezer temperature should be

0 degrees Fahrenheit or colder. At this temperature food should last indefinitely if packaged

properly. Remember these three rules when packaging foods for freezer storage: wrap

tightly, double-wrap the product again, and wrap individual portions separately. To prevent

freezer burn, you must wrap food tightly to remove as much air as possible and also

double-wrap the food product. When you wrap food in individual portions, you do not

have to thaw out a large amount of food. You just take out what you need for that meal.

Maintaining a food’s quality depends on several factors: the quality of the raw product,

the procedures used during processing, the way the food is stored, and the length of

storage. The recommended storage time takes these factors into consideration.

Table 26-1 depicts a storage chart for various types of food products. Also, I recommend

that dates be placed on food products to protect the consumer from eating spoiled or

outdated food.

IJKLMNOOJM

Terminal

cover

Temperature

control

Side access panel

Power

cord

Back

opening

FIGURE 26-5

Removing the side

access panel to gain

access to the

components.

Food Storage Time at 0o F Comments

Meat, Fish, Poultry

Bacon Freezing not

recommended

Saltiness encourages rancidity.

Corned beef Use within 1 month

Frankfurters 1 to 2 months Emulsion may be broken and the

product will “weep.”

Ground beef, lamb, or veal 2 to 4 months

Ground pork 1 to 2 months

Ham and picnic cured ham 1 to 2 months Saltiness encourages rancidity.

PART VI

Food Storage Time at 0o F Comments

Luncheon meats Use within 1 month Emulsion may be broken and the

product will “weep.”

Beef roast 4 to 12 months Freeze product in original packaging

for 2 weeks. If needed to store longer,

wrap in freezer wrap. For patties,

separate with wax paper.

Lamb or veal roast 6 to 9 months

Pork roast 3 to 6 months

Sausage, dry, smoked Use within 1 month Freezing alters the flavor.

Beef steaks 6 to 9 months Freeze product in original packaging

for 2 weeks. If needed to store longer,

wrap in freezer wrap. For patties,

separate with wax paper.

Beef chops 4 to 6 months

Lamb or veal steaks and chops 3 to 4 months

Pork steaks and chops 2 to 3 months

Venison or game birds 6 to 12 months

Fish

Lean fish, cod, flounder, haddock,

and sole fillets and steaks

6 months Freeze product in original packaging

for 2 weeks. If needed to store longer,

Bluefish, mackerel, perch, and wrap in freezer wrap.

salmon

2 to 3 months

Breaded fish 3 months

Clams 2 to 3 months

Cooked fish or seafood 3 to 6 months

King crab 5 months

Lobster tails 2 to 3 months

Oysters 2 to 4 months

Scallops 3 to 6 months

Shrimp, uncooked 10 months

Poultry

Chicken, cut up or whole 9 to 12 months Freeze product in original packaging

for 2 weeks. If needed to store longer,

wrap in freezer wrap. For patties,

separate with wax paper.

Chicken livers 3 to 4 months

Cooked poultry 3 to 5 months

Duck, turkey 6 to 9 months

Fruit

Berries, cherries, peaches,

pears, pineapples, etc.

12 months

Citrus fruit and juice frozen at

home

6 months

Fruit juice concentrates 8 to 12 months

Food Storage Time at 0o F Comments

Vegetables

Home frozen 10 months Cabbage, celery, salad greens, and

tomatoes for slicing do not freeze

successfully; tomatoes for soups,

stews, or sauces can be frozen

successfully.

Purchased frozen 8 months

Baked Goods

Yeast bread and rolls, baked 2 to 4 months Freezing does not refresh the baked

goods. It can only maintain whatever

the quality of the food was before

freezing.

Rolls, partially baked 2 to 3 months

Bread, unbaked 1 month

Quick bread, baked 2 to 3 months

Cake, baked, unfrosted 2 to 3 months

Angel food cake 2 to 6 months

Chiffon sponge cake 2 months Freezing does not refresh the baked

goods. It can only maintain whatever

the quality of the food was before

freezing.

Cheesecake 2 to 3 months

Chocolate cake 4 months

Fruit cake 6 to 12 months

Yellow or pound cake 6 months

Cake, baked, frosted 3 to 4 months

Cookies, baked 8 to 12 months

Pie, baked 1 to 2 months

Fruit pie, baked 6 to 8 months

Cake, unbaked 1 month

Main Dishes

Meat, fish, and poultry, pies and

casseroles

3 to 4 months

TV dinners, including shrimp,

ham, pork, or frankfurter

3 to 4 months

TV dinners, including beef,

turkey, chicken, or fish

6 months

Frozen Foods – Home

Baked muffins 6 to 12 months

Unfrosted doughnuts 2 to 4 months

Waffles 1 month

Bread 3 months

Cake 3 months

PART VI

Food Storage Time at 0o F Comments

Casseroles – meat, fish, or

poultry

2 to 4 months

Cookies, baked and dough 2 to 3 months

Nuts, salted 6 to 8 months

Nuts, unsalted 9 to 12 months

Pies, unbaked fruit 8 months

Dairy Products

Butter 6 to 9 months

Margarine 12 months

will separate.

Buttermilk, sour cream, and

yogurt

Do not freeze

Camembert cheese 3 months

Cottage, farmer’s cheese (dry

curd only)

1 to 3 months Do not freeze creamy cottage cheese;

it will become mushy.

Cheddar cheese 6 weeks

Edam, gouda, Swiss, brick

cheeses, etc.

6 to 8 weeks

Processed cheese food

products (loaves, slices)

4 to 6 months

Roquefort, blue cheese 3 months

Cream – light, heavy, half and

half

2 to 4 months

Whipped cream 1 to 2 months

unsatisfactory in cooked products.

Whole eggs out of the shell or

egg yolks

12 months Beat thoroughly with either ½ teaspoon

of salt or 2 tablespoons of sugar per

cup of yolk or whole egg to control

the thickening of the yolk; use in food

products that ordinarily use salt or

sugar as an ingredient.

Egg whites 12 months Added salt or sugar not necessary.

Ice cream, ice milk, sherbet,

frozen yogurt

2 months

Milk 1 month

Safety First

install, maintain, or repair any freezers. Any improper installation, preventive maintenance,

or repairs could create a risk of personal injury or property damage.

If you do not fully understand the installation, preventive maintenance, or repair

procedures in this chapter, or if you doubt your ability to complete the task on your freezer,

please call your service manager.

Before continuing, take a moment to refresh your memory on the safety procedures in

Chapter 2.

Freezers in General

Much of the troubleshooting information in this chapter covers freezers in general, rather than

specific models, in order to present a broad overview of service techniques. The illustrations

in this chapter are for demonstration purposes only, to clarify the description of how to

service these appliances. They in no way reflect a particular brand’s reliability.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting by Symptom Diagnosis

When servicing an appliance, don’t overlook the simple things that might be causing the

problem. Step-by-step troubleshooting by symptom diagnosis is based on diagnosing

malfunctions, with possible causes arranged into categories relating to the operation of the

freezer. This section is intended only to serve as a checklist to aid you in diagnosing a

problem. Look at the symptom that best describes the problem you are experiencing with

the freezer, and then correct the problem.

The Freezer Does Not Operate

interrupt.

Compressor Will Not Run

PART VI

Compressor Kicks Out on Overload

overheat the compressor. Low voltage will try to run the compressor with the start

winding. A compressor is designed to start and run within a 10 percent tolerance of

the rated voltage.

Freezer Is Too Warm

if they are coming on when the refrigeration cycle is running.

Freezer Is Too Noisy

Sweating on the Outside of the Cabinet

to sweat.

Incomplete Defrosting of the Evaporator Coil or High Temperature During the Defrost Cycle

Odor in Cabinet

Excessive Frost Buildup on Evaporator Coil

Freezer Run Time Is Too Long

minimum of four hours to cool down.

freezer recently.

Clean or change gasket.

PART VI

Temperature in the Freezer Is Higher Than Normal

Temperature Inside Freezer Is Too Cold

setting.

Freezer Runs Excessively or Continuously

Troubleshooting Sealed-System Problems

If you suspect a sealed-system malfunction, be sure to check all external factors first. These

include:

After eliminating all of these external factors, you will systematically check the sealed

system. This is accomplished by comparing the conditions found in a normally operating

freezer. These conditions are:

One thing to keep in mind is that no single indicator is conclusive proof that a particular

sealed-system problem exists. Rather, it is a combination of findings that must be used to

definitively pinpoint the exact problem (see Chapter 25).

Repair Procedures

Each repair procedure is a complete inspection and repair process for a single freezer

component. It contains the information you need to test the components and replace them,

if necessary.

any freezer. Any improper installation, preventative maintenance, or repairs will create a

risk of personal injury, as well as property damage. Call the service manager if installation,

preventative maintenance, or the repair procedure is not fully understood.

Thermostat (Cold Control)

The thermostat (cold control) is located in the freezer compartment in an upright freezer or

in the bottom compartment in a chest type model (Figure 26-4). The cold control maintains

the temperature in the freezer. It turns the compressor and fans on and off at preset

temperature settings.

The typical complaints associated with failure of the thermostat (cold control) are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

control off and on again to see if the freezer starts up. Is the power indicator light

on? If the freezer will not power up, locate the technical data sheet behind the

control panel or cabinet for diagnostics information. On some models you will need

the actual service manual for the model you are working on to properly diagnose

the freezer.

the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Explain to the user how to set the

controls. The voltage at the receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts during a

load on the circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

PART VI

This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity

at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

(see Figure 26-5). Next, remove the two screws that secure the control. Remove the

wires from the terminals. The capillary tube is inserted into a channel. Do not

remove capillary tube yet. Test the control first.

control set in the “off” position, you should not read continuity. When the control is

set to the highest position, you should read continuity. If the thermostat is good, the

problem must be elsewhere.

capillary tube must now be removed. Remove the capillary tube from the channel.

disassembly, and reassemble. Then test the control. Remember to reinstall the

capillary tube in the same location from which it was removed. Be careful not to

kink the tube. If you do, the freezer will not work properly.

Multitester

Temperature

control

FIGURE 26-6

Testing the thermostat

with a multitester with

the range set on the

ohms scale. If you

read no continuity,

replace the

thermostat.

Power Indicator Light

The power indicator light lets the consumer know that the freezer is plugged into the

receptacle and voltage is present.

The typical complaints associated with the failure of the power indicator light are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

the wall receptacle. Is the power indicator light on? If the freezer will not power up,

locate the technical data sheet behind the control panel or cabinet for diagnostics

information. On some models you will need the actual service manual for the model

you are working on to properly diagnose the freezer.

the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Check the voltage to the freezer.

The voltage at the receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts during a load on the

circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity

at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

screwdriver to pry out the power indicator light from the front of the freezer

cabinet. Next, remove the wires from the indicator light (Figure 26-7).

test for continuity. The meter should show continuity; if not, replace the

component.

reverse the order of disassembly, and reassemble (Figure 26-9). Then test the

control.

Gasket

The door gasket is mounted to the lid on a chest freezer and mounted on the door of an

upright model. The door gasket consists of a vinyl rubber gasket with a magnet. The

magnet helps secure the door closed to keep the cold inside the box and the heat out.

PART VI

The typical complaints associated with failure of the door gasket are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

checking the door gasket for proper sealing and

alignment. Inspect the gaskets for any damage.

external factors not associated with the appliance. Is

the appliance installed properly?

refrigerator/freezer, disconnect the electricity. This

can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle.

Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at

the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

sealing, take a dollar bill and place it between the

gasket and the flange of the outer cabinet. Pull on

the dollar bill. When pulling on the dollar bill, you

should feel some tension as the gasket and flange

grip the bill. Repeat this test in other areas where

you suspect problems with the gasket. If the gasket

fails this test, the next step is to replace the gasket.

Power indicator light

indicator light. Be careful not to scratch the

cabinet.

Power

indicator

light

Multitester

indicator light.

power indicator light, you must irst

reconnect the wires and then insert

the light in the cabinet.

(Figure 26-10). Turn the door over on its back.

the screws (Figure 26-11).

for 15 to 20 minutes. This will make the gasket soft and easier to install. Starting at

either top corner, insert the flange of the gasket behind the retaining strip and/or

door liner. Proceed all the way around the door. When the gasket is in place, begin

to tighten the screws slightly all around the door or reinstall the studs. If the gasket

is distorted, or if it has wrinkles in it, use a hair dryer to heat the gasket and mold it

to its original form. Then be sure the gasket seats against the flange properly. Next,

check the gap between the door and the cabinet; adjust it, if necessary (see step 4).

Putty knife

Gasket

Stud

Screw

FIGURE 26-10

Removing the screws

from the hinges and

lifting the door from

the freezer.

FIGURE 26-11

Removing the studs

(inset). On some

models, you must

remove the screws

that secure the gasket

to the door.

PART VI

Defrost Timer (Automatic Defrost Models)

The purpose of the defrost timer is to regulate the frequency of the defrost cycles and their

duration. The defrost timer also limits the maximum amount of time that the defrost heater

can be energized. There are two types of configurations used in a mechanical timer. They

are continuous run and cumulative run. The difference between the two is the way that the

timer motor is energized. The continuous run timer will be energized anytime when the

refrigerator is plugged in, and the cumulative run timer is energized when the cold control

is calling for cooling and the compressor is running.

The typical complaints associated with failure of the defrost timer are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

the freezer is doing or did. If the freezer will not power up, locate the technical data

sheet behind the control panel or cabinet for diagnostics information. On some

models you will need the actual service manual for the model you are working on

to properly diagnose the freezer.

the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Is the door aligned properly? The

voltage at the receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts during a load on the

circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

to the appliance. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or

disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off

the electricity.

some models, the defrost timer is located on the bottom, behind the toe plate; or it

might be behind the temperature control housing, in the freezer section (Figure 25-14); or

it might be in the back of the freezer, behind the rear leg (Figure 25-15) or in the

compressor compartment.

from its mounting position. Remove the two mounting screws from the defrost

timer (see Figure 25-15). Next, remove the wire harness plug from the defrost timer

(Figure 25-16).

slot (Figure 25-17), and turn it clockwise until you hear the first “snap.” The defrost

timer is now in the defrost cycle. At this point, you must read the wiring diagram to

determine which numbered terminals are for the defrost circuit. For the purpose of

demonstrating how to check for continuity of the switch contacts, Figure 25-18a

illustrates the internal components of this sample timer. Set the ohmmeter scale on

should measure continuity. Next, rotate the timer cam until you hear the second

“snap.” The meter will show no continuity, indicating that the defrost cycle is over

and that the refrigeration cycle begins.

Now place the meter probes on the terminals marked 3 and 4. The ohmmeter will

show continuity, indicating the refrigeration cycle is activated. Turn the timer cam

once again, until you hear the first “snap.” The meter will show no continuity. At

no time should there be continuity between terminals 2 and 4. (If so, the switch

contacts are burned and welded together and the defrost timer must be replaced.)

If the defrost timer passes this portion of the test, you must determine if the timer

mechanism is functioning. Place the ohmmeter probes on the timer motor leads and

read the resistance. The resistance can be between 800 and 4000 ohms, depending

on the type of timer used by the manufacturer. If you are unable to read resistance,

the timer motor is defective.

If the defrost timer passes this portion of the test, rotate the timer cam until you hear

the first “snap.” Advance the timer cam again, counting the number of clicks until you

hear the second “snap.” Write down the number of clicks on a piece of paper. Now

rotate the timer cam again until the marks line up (Figure 25-18b), which indicates

the beginning of the defrost cycle, and the “snap” is heard. Advance the timer cam

and count the clicks until there is one click left before the end of the defrost cycle. Take

the timer and reconnect it to the wiring harness (see Figure 25-16). Place the defrost

timer on a nonmetallic surface.

working with live wires. Avoid getting shocked. Place the ammeter jaws around the

wire attached to the number 4 terminal. The meter should indicate no amperage.

Next, place the jaws on the number 2 terminal wire. The ammeter should indicate

some amperage. Wait for approximately 10 to 15 minutes: you should hear a “snap,”

indicating that the timer has completed the defrost cycle. At this point, the ammeter

will show no amperage on number 2, but will indicate current flow at number 4. If

not, replace the timer.

of disassembly and reassemble. Remember to reconnect the ground wire to the

defrost timer.

Defrost Heater (Automatic Defrost Models)

Manufacturers also use a single-calrod type, radiant heater mounted under the evaporator

coil for maximum defrosting of the evaporator coil.

PART VI

The typical complaints associated with failure of the defrost heater are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

the freezer is doing. Is food spoiling? Check the temperature in the compartment.

Check for ice buildup on the evaporator cover. If the freezer will not power up,

locate the technical data sheet behind the control panel or cabinet for diagnostics

information. On some models you will need the actual service manual for the

model you are working on to properly diagnose the freezer.

the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Is there electricity to the freezer?

Is the electrical receptacle polarized and properly grounded? The voltage at the

receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts during a load on the circuit. Do you

have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity

at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

must be removed (see Figure 25-23). Remove the screws that secure the cover

in place.

indicated on the wiring diagram. To test the defrost heater, remove the wires from

the heater terminals. Next, place the probes of the ohmmeter on the heater terminals

reading is indicated, replace the defrost heater.

defrost the ice from the evaporator coil. Bend the clips that secure the heater in

place and then remove the defrost heater.

of disassembly and reassemble. When reinstalling any shrouds, grilles, ducts, or

gaskets, always position them correctly to ensure the proper airflow through the

evaporator and within the compartment of the freezer.

Defrost Thermostat (Automatic Defrost Models)

The defrost thermostat is a bimetal switch installed on the evaporator coil that provides

over temperature protection during defrost. The defrost heaters will defrost the evaporator

coil within a given time. But, if the evaporator coil is totally defrosted before the time has

expired, the defrost thermostat will open up, shutting off the defrost heater to prevent the

evaporator coil area from overheating.

The typical complaints associated with failure of the defrost thermostat are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

the freezer is doing. Is food spoiling? Check the temperature in the compartment.

Check for ice buildup on the evaporator cover. If the freezer will not power up,

locate the technical data sheet behind the control panel or cabinet for diagnostics

information. On some models you will need the actual service manual for the

model you are working on to properly diagnose the freezer.

the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Is there electricity to the freezer?

Is the electrical receptacle polarized and properly grounded? The voltage at the

receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts during a load on the circuit. Do you

have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity

at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

Defrost

Heater

Defrost

Thermostat

FIGURE 26-12

Frozen evaporator coil.

Test the defrost

thermostat irst before

you defrost the

evaporator coil.

PART VI

cover must be removed (see Figure 26-12). Remove the screws that secure the cover

in place.

evaporator. To test the defrost thermostat, disconnect the wires to isolate

the thermostat from the rest of the defrost circuit. Next, place the probes of the

meter will show continuity when the thermostat is either frozen or very cold,

indicating the defrost thermostat is good. The defrost thermostat switch contacts

close when the temperature is colder than its temperature rating. If no reading is

indicated, replace the defrost thermostat. At ambient temperature, you will read

no continuity, which will indicate the thermostat might be good.

the hold-down clamp. On some models, the defrost thermostat and clamp are one

assembly. On other models, the defrost thermostat clamps around the evaporator

tubing. As shown in Figure 26-12, remove this type of defrost thermostat by squeezing

in on the clip and lifting the thermostat up.

the order of disassembly and reassemble. Remember to reconnect the wires to the

thermostat. When reinstalling any shrouds, grilles, ducts, or gaskets, always position

them correctly to ensure the proper airflow through the evaporator and within the

compartment of the freezer. On models that have the defrost thermostat attached to

the evaporator coil, you must reinstall the defrost thermostat in the same location

from which it was removed.

Evaporator Fan Motor (Automatic Defrost Models)

The evaporator fan motor provides air circulation within the freezer cabinet and over the

evaporator coil which is located in the freezer compartment of the freezer. One type of

motor used in freezers is a shaded pole, single-speed motor that runs on 120 VAC.

The typical complaints associated with failure of the evaporator fan motor are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

the freezer is doing or did. Is the evaporator fan motor running? Is it noisy? If the

refrigerator will not power up, locate the technical data sheet behind the control panel

or cabinet for diagnostics information. On some models you will need the actual

service manual for the model you are working on to properly diagnose the freezer.

the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Is there something hitting the fan

blade? Is there electricity to the freezer? Is the electrical receptacle polarized and

properly grounded? The voltage at the receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts

during a load on the circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the

electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

evaporator cover must be removed. Remove the screws that secure the cover in

place. On some models, the evaporator fan assembly is located on the rear wall of

the interior freezer compartment.

should be tested for proper resistance, as indicated on the wiring diagram. To test

the evaporator shaded-pole fan motor, remove the wires from the motor terminals.

Next, place the probes of the ohmmeter on the motor terminals (Figure 25-22). Set

replace the motor. If the fan blade does not spin freely, replace the motor. If the fan

motor runs and it is noisy (bad bearings), replace the motor. Also check the motor

for grounded windings; if grounded, replace the motor.

first remove the fan blade. On most models, just pull the blade off the motor shaft.

Be careful not to break the blade. On other models, the fan blade is held on the

motor shaft with screws. Remove the screws. Then remove the screws that secure

the fan assembly to the cabinet (Figure 25-23). On some models, you must remove

the fan shroud (Figure 25-24) by removing the shroud screws.

reverse the order of disassembly and reassemble. When reinstalling the fan blades

onto the motor shaft, the fan blades should be positioned on the shaft so that onethird

of its depth (approximately 1/4 inch) protrudes through the fan orifice in the

direction of airflow. When reinstalling any shrouds, grilles, ducts, or gaskets, always

position them correctly to ensure the proper airflow through the evaporator and

within the compartment of the freezer. Remember to reconnect the ground wire to

the motor. Reconnect the wires to the motor terminals, and test.

PART VI

Compressor, Relay, and Overload Protector

The compressor (reciprocating or rotary type) is the heart of the vapor compression system.

It is used to circulate the refrigerant throughout the sealed system. The relay and overload

are attached to the compressor. The relay starts the compressor, and the overload protects

the compressor. All three components are located in the machine compartment in the rear

or bottom of the freezer. The relay can be either a current or a PTC (positive temperature

coefficient) type device. The overload is a bimetal switch that is secured to the outer shell of

the compressor.

The typical complaints associated with failure of the compressor are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

the refrigerator is doing. If the freezer will not power up, locate the technical data

sheet behind the control panel or cabinet for diagnostics information. On some

models you will need the actual service manual for the model you are working on

to properly diagnose the freezer.

the appliance. Is the appliance installed properly? Check for a voltage drop during

freezer startup. Is there electricity to the freezer? Is the electrical receptacle polarized

and properly grounded? The voltage at the receptacle is between 108 volts and

132 volts during a load on the circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See

Chapter 6.)

This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle. Or disconnect the

electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

away from the wall. Remove the back panel, which is located at the bottom of the

freezer (Figure 26-5). This will expose the compressor. Next, remove the compressor

terminal cover (Figure 25-34) by removing the retaining clip that secures the cover.

Remove the terminal cover.

pulling it off the compressor terminals without twisting it (Figure 25-35a). Remove

the wires from the relay and label them. On the relay body is stamped the word

TOP. Hold the relay so that TOP is in the up position.

Next, place the probes of the ohmmeter on the relay terminals marked S and M. Set

probe from the terminal marked M, and place it on the side terminal marked L. The

reading will show no continuity. Now, move the probe from terminal S, and place it

on the terminal marked M. The reading will show continuity. With the probes still

attached, turn the relay upside down (Figure 25-35b), and perform the same tests.

By turning the relay over, the switch contacts in the relay will close. When you

retest the relay, you should get the opposite results: You should have continuity

between terminals S and M and between S and L; however, the meter will not read

continuity between M and L. If the relay fails this test, replace it. The elimination

method is the best way to test a PTC relay; you would first test the run capacitor,

overload, and then run the compressor with a fused test cord. If all of these

components check out okay, replace the relay.

the overload and compressor terminals. Then remove the overload protector

from the compressor by removing the retaining clip that secures the overload

protector to the compressor (Figure 25-36a). Next, place the probes of the ohmmeter

will show continuity. If not, replace the overload protector.

protector. This will expose the compressor terminals. The compressor terminals are

marked C, S, and R. C indicates the common winding terminal, S indicates the start

winding terminal, and R indicates the run winding terminal. (Refer to the actual wiring

probes together, and adjust the needle setting to indicate a zero reading. Next, place the

probes of the ohmmeter on the terminals marked S and R (Figure 25-37a). The meter

reading will show continuity. Now place the meter probes on the terminals marked C

and S. The meter reading will show continuity. Finally, place the meter probes on the

terminals marked C and R. The meter reading will show continuity. The total number

of ohms measured between S and R is equal to the sum of C to S plus C to R. The

compressor should be tested for proper resistance, as indicated on the wiring diagram.

To test the compressor for ground, place one probe on a compressor terminal, and

attach the other probe to the compressor housing or any good ground (Figure 25-37b).

this for the remaining two terminals. The meter reading will show no continuity. If

you get a continuity reading from any of these terminals to ground, the compressor

is grounded. Replace it.

the order of disassembly and reassemble. Remember to reconnect the wires to the

overload or relay.