Back to main page Atlanta Appliances repair, Inc.

Automatic Ice Makers

freezer compartment of a refrigerator. The ice maker has three distinct operations: fill,

freeze, and harvest the ice cubes. It is the refrigerator/freezer cooling system that

allows the water to freeze into whatever shape is designed by the ice mold or tray. The

amount of time it takes for the ice maker to produce and harvest ice cubes will depend on:

Safety First

install, maintain, or repair any automatic ice makers. Any improper installation, preventive

maintenance, or repairs could create a risk of personal injury or property damage.

If you do not fully understand the installation, preventive maintenance, or repair

procedures in this chapter, or if you doubt your ability to complete the task on your

automatic ice maker, please call your service manager.

The following precautions should also be followed:

refrigerator/freezer is plugged in.

automatic ice maker.

personal injury.

reinstalled, including the grounding and electrical connections.

Before continuing, take a moment to refresh your memory on safety procedures in

Chapter 2.

989

CHAPTER

Automatic Ice Makers in General

Much of the troubleshooting information in this chapter covers automatic ice makers in

general, rather than specific models, in order to present a broad overview of service

techniques. The illustrations that are used in this chapter are for demonstration purposes

only, to clarify the description of how to service ice makers. They in no way reflect on a

particular brand’s reliability.

Principles of Operation for Type-1 and Type-2 Automatic Ice Makers

The automatic ice maker is an electromechanical device that, when properly installed in the

freezer compartment of a refrigerator or freezer, will automatically perform the following

functions:

shutoff arm is in the up position

The freezer temperature determines the efficiency of the automatic ice maker. The colder

the temperature in the freezer, the faster ice will freeze in the mold or tray. In order for the

ice maker to harvest the ice cubes, the temperature in the freezer should be colder than

12 degrees Fahrenheit.

The water supply (Figure 27-1) is metered into the ice maker mold or tray by a water

valve, usually located in the compressor compartment. The water freezes in the automatic

ice maker mold or tray, as it would in a manual ice cube tray.

Type-1 Ice Maker

Type-1 ice makers, as illustrated in Figure 27-2, have a thermostat that is mounted on the ice

maker mold, which will sense the temperature of the ice. When the water and ice have cooled

and heater circuit. The motor will rotate the ejector blade, allowing it to rest on the ice cubes

and, at the same time, exert pressure. The ice maker mold heater will warm up the ice cubes

just enough to release them from the mold. This procedure will take approximately three to

five minutes to release the ice cubes from the mold.

When the ice cubes become free from the ice maker mold, the ejector blade will continue

to rotate, scooping the ice cubes out of the ice maker mold and depositing them into the ice

bucket. The shutoff arm moves up and down as the ice maker cycles.

At the end of the cycle, the arm will lie on top of the ice cubes. As the cubes fill the

ice bucket, the shutoff arm rises to a designated point and turns off the ice maker, halting

ice production. As the ice level in the bucket falls from use, the ice maker cycle will resume.

Then the water valve opens again, allowing the water to enter the ice maker mold to be

frozen into ice cubes, thus beginning the cycle all over again. The fill time for the type-1

ice maker is approximately seven seconds. This type of ice maker can produce up to eight

pounds of ice within a 24-hour period, providing the conditions are ideal. Some customers

PART VI

will have ice production between three to five pounds per day, depending on usage and

door openings.

Type-2 Ice Maker

The type-2 ice maker (Figure 27-3) has the components in the ice maker head necessary

for the ice-making operation. The temperature in the freezer compartment must be below

FIGURE 27-1

A typical ice maker

water supply

installation. Note the

direction of the water

low.

FIGURE 27-2

Type-1 ice maker.

Plastic tube

Water inlet valve

Shutoff valve

Shutoff

arm

Copper tube

Water pipe

Water flow

Ice maker

15 degrees Fahrenheit before the ice maker will begin

to operate. Inside the ice maker head assembly is a

thermostat that senses the temperature in the freezer

compartment. When the thermostat is satisfied, it will

energize the timer motor. When the motor is

energized, it will begin to turn a timing gear and the

shutoff arm will also begin to move. The shutoff arm

will descend into the ice bucket to determine how

much ice is there. If the bucket is full, the shutoff arm

will rest against the ice cubes and the ice maker will

not cycle. If the shutoff arm continues to its normal

position, the ice bucket is not full and the cycle

will continue.

If the cycle continues, the tray will begin to rotate.

When the tray has rotated about 140 degrees, one

corner of the tray engages the tray stop, which

prevents that part of the tray from rotating further

(Figure 27-4). The rest of the tray will continue to

rotate and twist the tray to about 40 degrees. At this point, the twisting of the tray will

loosen the ice cubes. As the shaft continues to turn, the tray stop will begin to retract. As this

happens, the tray will rapidly release the ice cubes into the ice bucket. After the ice has been

released, the tray will continue to rotate until it has completed its 360-degree rotation. Near

the end of the tray rotation, the water valve fill switch is energized, allowing the water to

enter and fill the tray for the next cycle (Figure 27-5). The fill time for type-2 ice makers is

approximately 12 seconds.

Ice Production Rate

Before a technician can repair an ice maker, he or she must test the freezer compartment

temperature first. The freezer capacity must maintain a temperature of 0 degrees Fahrenheit

(plus or minus 5 degrees) under loaded conditions. To ensure that the ice maker functions

properly, the refrigeration system must be capable of reducing the temperature at the

ice maker thermostat to approximately 17 degrees Fahrenheit (plus or minus 3 degrees).

The greater the system capacity, the shorter the ice freezing cycle and the higher the ice

production rate.

Airflow direction around the ice maker mold, consumer usage, and ambient temperatures

will also affect the ice production rate. The only component in the ice maker that can alter

the length of the ice freezing cycle is the thermostat.

The amount of water and the temperature of the water that enters the ice maker mold

can affect ice production. The fill level is affected by water pressure, water line saddle valve

or tee, water valve flow washer, and ice maker timing. Never install a water line to the ice

maker using a self-piercing saddle valve. This type of valve will reduce the water pressure

in the line to the ice maker in a short matter of time.

Under optimum conditions, ice harvests of 3.5 to 4.5 pounds in 24 hours can be

expected. Realistically the consumer may have only 2.5 to 3.5 pounds in 24 hours. To obtain

this amount of ice, three conditions must exist: correct airflow temperature, correct freezer

temperature, and correct temperature at the ice maker mold.

PART VI

Testing the Type-1 Ice Maker

The type-1 ice maker is designed to allow all of the components to be tested without removing

the ice maker and without moving the refrigerator away from the wall to test the water

valve. The ice maker in Figure 27-6a is the old-style ice maker, and it is not in production any

more. Parts for this ice maker are still available, however. Figure 27-6b is the new-style modular

ice maker. The components that make up this ice maker are illustrated in Figure 27-7.

The test holes that are on the ice maker head module (see Figure 27-6b) are identified as

“N,” “M,” “H,” “T,” “L,” and “V.” These are the test points for testing this type of ice maker.

The letters indicate the following:

This test requires the electricity to be turned on.

Tray in twist mode

Tray stop engaging

corner of tray

FIGURE 27-4

The ice tray will twist,

releasing the ice

cubes.

FIGURE 27-5

The ice cube tray

must return to a level

position after the

illing cycle is

complete.

Water fill valve

solenoid energized

Tray rotating toward

level position Ice cubes

harvested

The following test holes, when jumped out with a jumper wire, will perform the

following:

N

M

H

L T

V

(a) (b)

Support

housing

Mold

Module

Screw

inside housing

Pins

Mold

heater

Stripper

Fill cup

Ejector

Shutoff

arm

PART VI

If you place your voltmeter leads in these test holes, your meter will read 120 volts.

All electrical components in a type-1 ice maker can be resistance tested from the front

module with the outer cover removed and the 120 volts disconnected from the refrigerator

(Figures 27-6 and 27-8).

To test this ice maker, the unit must be installed and plugged into the freezer ice maker

receptacle, the shutoff arm must be placed in the down position, and the temperature in the

freezer should be colder than 12 degrees Fahrenheit. Set your multimeter for voltage, and

place one probe in test point “L” and the other probe in test point “N.” Be sure that the test

module. Be safe. Unplug the refrigerator or turn off the circuit breaker to the refrigerator.

Inserting the ohmmeter leads between test points L and H will check the resistance of the heater

(72 ohms, ± 10 percent).

Inserting the leads between L and M will check the motor resistance (approximately 4400 ohms).

Inserting the ohmmeter leads between test points V and N will check the resistance of the water

valve coil (approximately 300 ohms). This check is especially helpful since it allows you to check the

continuity of the water valve without having to remove the water valve or pull the refrigerator away from

the wall.

Contact A

Contact B

Contact C

Contact D

Water valve

Neutral

(White)

115V

(Black)

Green

TP TD

TP

TP TP

H T

M

Thermostat

mtr.

V

Shutoff

switch

On

Off (Up)

(Dn)

N L

Brown

probes go into the test points about 1/2 inch. You should

have a reading of 120 volts, which indicates line voltage to

the ice maker. Next, place the meter probes in test points

“T” and “H.” This will verify if the bimetal thermostat is

open or closed. If the thermostat is open, you will read

120 volts. If it is closed, you will read no line voltage. At

this point, you are going to use an insulated jumper wire

procedure will run the motor. If the motor doesn’t run,

replace the ice maker module assembly. If the ice maker

motor runs, replace the bimetal thermostat. If you leave the

jumper wire in for half of a revolution, you will feel the

mold heater heating up. This means that the mold heater

is working. Now remove the jumper wire, and the water

valve will be energized in the last half of the revolution.

The ejector blade shown in Figure 27-10 is rotating clockwise. This illustration shows what is

about to happen as the cycle begins (from the stop position) and rotates

360 degrees back again.

Another way to test the water valve without cycling the ice maker is to place one end of

the jumper wire in test point “N” and the other end in test point “V.” Water will immediately

enter the ice maker mold, so be ready to disconnect the jumper wire. If no water enters the

mold, check the water supply, the water valve, and the connecting tubing.

short out the test points on the ice maker

module.

6 o’clock

position

Thermostat

opens in this

range of rotation

Ejector stalls

on ice

Ejector blade stop position

(about 1:30 o’clock)

Water valve

energized

Viewed from front

PART VI

Testing the Type-1 Electronic Ice Maker

When this type of ice maker is turned on (Figure 27-11), a green LED will light on the right

side of the cover. This indicator will let the consumer and the technician know that there is

power (voltage) to the ice maker. The LED is also used for a fault code if something is

wrong with the ice maker function. When a fault occurs, the LED will flash on and off for

half a second at a time until the ice maker is repaired. To place the electronic ice maker in

the service test mode, you will need to locate the technical data sheet in the refrigerator or

locate the service manual for the model you are servicing. Figure 27-12 depicts an exploded

view of a type-1 electronic ice maker.

Testing the Type-2 Ice Maker

In testing the operation of the type-2 ice maker head, you will have to initiate the harvest

cycle. Do not remove the ice maker for this test. The shutoff arm will not operate during the

refrigerator.

On/Off

switch

Ice maker

mold

Ice maker

feeler arm

Ice maker

water ll

Ice maker

power cord

Ice bucket

auger and

motor for

dispensing

ice through

the freezer

door

manual harvest. When performing the following procedures, refer to Figure 27-13. To cycle

the ice maker, do the following:

1. Place the shutoff arm in the “on” position.

2. Push the switch actuator tab down, and hold it. This will activate the ice maker motor.

3. Push the tray lock tab toward the tray shaft. This will unlock the tray.

4. Twist the tray clockwise. This will start the cycle.

5. As the tray turns past 30 degrees, you can release the switch actuator tab.

On/Off

switch

Feeler

arm

Green

LED

Ice maker

rake arm Ice maker

mold

Heater

Ice

maker

motor

PART VI

6. After the harvest cycle is complete, empty the water from the ice tray. This will

prevent the next automatic harvest cycle that occurs from dumping water into the

ice bucket. When you perform a manual harvest, you interrupt the timing sequence

only. A manual harvest will not reset the timing mechanism.

If you are unable to start the harvest cycle, check the motor shaft to see if it turns while

you depress the switch actuator (Figure 27-14). Also check the temperature in the freezer. If

the temperature is above 15 degrees Fahrenheit, the ice maker will not operate. If the motor

shaft still does not rotate, remove the ice maker and test the unit on the work bench. Use a

Manually twist

tray to start cycle

Switch actuator

must be down for

motor to operate

Push toward

tray shaft to

unlock tray

on

FIGURE 27-13

Manually twist the ice

tray clockwise. When

the tray reaches

30 degrees, release

the switch actuator.

FIGURE 27-14

To shut off the ice

maker, lift the shutoff

arm and rest it on the

tab, as indicated by

the broken lines.

Tray stop

Tray lock

Motor shaft

Shutoff

arm

OFF

position

ON

position

Lift

Water/Temperature Problems

The water quality can cause the ice maker to malfunction or produce poor-quality ice cubes.

If the minerals in the water or sand particles become lodged in the water valve fill screen, it

can restrict or stop the water from entering the ice maker mold. If sand particles bypass the

fill screen in the water valve, it can possibly keep the water valve from closing completely,

thus causing the water to enter the ice maker mold continuously. If this condition happens,

the ice maker will produce small cubes or may even flood the ice maker compartment and

freezer. Another indication of a defective water valve is that the ice maker fill tube will be

completely frozen shut, possibly causing water to flow onto the floor every time the ice

maker cycles. The minerals in the water can also cause lime deposits to build up on the ice

maker mold. If this happens, the ice cubes will not be released easily from the mold.

Ice production can be slowed down if the temperature in the freezer compartment is

above normal. To correct this problem, adjust the temperature controls to a colder position.

The more the doors are opened, the colder the temperature setting must be.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting Type-1 Ice Makers by Symptom Diagnosis

When servicing an appliance, don’t overlook the simple things that might be causing the

problem. Step-by-step troubleshooting by symptom diagnosis is based on diagnosing

malfunctions, with possible causes arranged in categories relating to the operation of the

automatic ice maker. This section is intended only to serve as a checklist to aid you in

diagnosing a problem. Look at the symptom that best describes the problem you are

experiencing with the automatic ice maker, and then correct the problem.

Ice Maker Producing Too Much Ice

Ice Maker Will Not Make Ice/Low Ice Production

FIGURE 27-15

A test cord to test

a type-2 ice maker.

Light

Black

Red

PART VI

Ice Cubes Are Too Small

Are there at least 140 cc of water in the glass?

the thermostat and the ice maker mold.

Ice Maker Is Producing Hollow Ice Cubes

Are there at least 140 cc of water in the glass?

from the ice maker thermostat.

Ice Maker Is Flooding the Freezer Compartment or Ice Bucket

causing the ice in the bucket to freeze together.

maker motor has stalled.

should be between 20 and 120 psi.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting Type-2 Ice Makers by Symptom Diagnosis

When servicing an appliance, don’t overlook the simple things that might be causing the

problem. Step-by-step troubleshooting by symptom diagnosis is based upon diagnosing

malfunctions, with possible causes arranged into categories relating to the operation of the

automatic ice maker. This section is intended only to serve as a checklist to aid you in

diagnosing a problem. Look at the symptom that best describes the problem you are

experiencing with the automatic ice maker, and then proceed to correct the problem.

Ice Maker Will Not Run

Ice Cubes Are Stuck Together

tray, which can cause the ice cubes to stick together on the next cycle.

Ice Maker Spills Water from the Tray

return to its starting position and the tray should be level.

properly.

Water Will Not Enter Ice Tray

PART VI

Ice Cubes Too Small, or Some of the Ice Cube Compartments Are Empty

Are there at least 200 cc of water in the glass? The fill time will be between 12 and

13 seconds.

Diagnostic Chart

The diagnostic chart (Figure 27-16 and 27-17) will help you to pinpoint the likely cause of

the problem with an ice maker.

Ice maker not making ice.

Check temperature

in freezer.

Temperature must

be below 12F.

Check water supply

to ice maker.

Check ice maker

water valve and

solenoid coil.

Adjust temp.

controls.

Check position of

shutoff arm.

Move shutoff

arm to the

“on” position.

Check ice maker

fill tube. Is

it frozen?

Is the ice maker

installed properly?

Inspect the

ice maker.

Make repairs to I/M.

Cycle the

ice maker.

Check ice

maker plug.

Check for broken

wires or loose

connections.

Replace

water valve.

Yes

Check ice maker

mold for water

or ice.

Check for

external factors.

Repair loose or

broken wires. Replace ice maker.

No ice

No LED

Bad switch

Loose wire lead

Control board failure

Thermistor failure

Ejector not in home position

Water supply shut off

Water valve failure

Loose wire lead

Bad thermistor

Control board failure

Winding failure

Loose wire lead

Broken/loose gear

Broken/bent shaft

Wrong connection

Ground

Open circuit

Heater element failure

I/M thermostat failure

Ice bucket full

Feeler arm stuck

Thermistor failure

Magnet failure

Control board failure

Motor failure

Heater failure

Ice cubes jammed

Motor has stalled

LED

lashing

No ill

No harvest

Water

overlow

Ice cubes harvested too early Thermistor failure

Control board failure

Water valve failure

Control board failure

Thermistor not detecting water ill

Improper water valve connection

Magnet failure

Control board failure

Motor has stalled

PART VI

Repair Procedures

Each repair procedure is a complete inspection and repair process for a single ice cube maker

component, containing the information you need to test and replace components.

any ice makers. Any improper installation, preventative maintenance, or repairs will create

a risk of personal injury, as well as property damage. Call the service manager if installation,

preventative maintenance, or the repair procedure is not fully understood.

Type-1 Ice Maker: Module

The ice maker module runs all of the operations of the ice maker. It is located on the end of

the ice maker (Figure 27-8). All diagnostic tests can be performed on the ice maker module.

The typical complaints associated with failure of the ice maker module are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

temperature in the freezer. It will be helpful if you can locate the actual service manual

for the ice maker model you are working on to properly diagnose the ice maker.

The service manual will assist you in properly placing the ice maker in the service

test mode for testing the ice maker functions.

the ice maker. For example, is the ice maker installed properly? The voltage at the

wall receptacle and the ice maker receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts

during a load on the circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

to the refrigerator/freezer. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle.

Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off

the electricity.

the screws that secure the ice maker to the wall of the freezer (Figure 27-18). Next,

unplug the ice maker from the receptacle and remove the ice maker (Figure 27-19a).

Now depress the retaining tab, and pull the wiring harness from the ice maker head

(Figure 27-19b).

determining that you must replace the ice maker module, it is time to disassemble it.

depressing the tab, and then pull it.

Plug

Depress tab and

pull harness out

(a)

(b)

PART VI

Insert a flat-blade screwdriver between the shutoff arm and the white elongated

hole on the ice maker head (Figure 27-20). Remove the shutoff arm by prying the

arm out of the ice maker head. Pry off the ice maker cover (Figure 27-21) with a coin

or a screwdriver. This will expose the ice maker module. To remove the ice maker

module, remove the three screws (Figure 27-22), and pull the module out of the ice

maker head. Inspect the module linkage and switch contacts (Figure 27-23).

Shutoff

arm

Fill cup

Straight end

Shutoff

arm

White elongated

hole

FIGURE 27-20

Removing the shutoff

arm by prying it out of

the slot. When

installing the shutoff

arm, be sure that the

end is pressed in all

the way.

module.

Cover

Coin

screws to remove the module.

the order of disassembly, and reassemble. To reinstall the shutoff arm on the ice

maker (see Figure 27-20), you must first insert the straight end into the round hole

in the fill cup. Be sure the flat side on the arm goes through the fill cup. This will

prevent the shutoff arm from coming out of the fill cup hole. Next, insert the other

end of the shutoff arm into the white elongated hole in the ice maker housing. Do

not install the arm into any of the round holes in the ice maker housing. Push on the

arm so that it will be completely in place and even with the ice maker surface.

Reinstall the ice maker in the freezer, and test it.

Type-1 Ice Maker: Thermostat

The ice maker thermostat is located in the ice maker housing, and it is secured to the ice

maker mold with two clips. Make sure the freezer temperature is colder than 12 degrees

Fahrenheit. Remember that the ice maker thermostat will close between 15 and 17 degrees

Fahrenheit.

The typical complaints associated with failure of the ice maker thermostat are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

temperature in the freezer. It will be helpful if you can locate the actual service manual

for the ice maker model you are working on to properly diagnose the ice maker.

Motor

Staked leads

Cam follower

Shutoff arm

linkage

Ground (slightly longer

than the other 3 terminals

so that ground makes

first and breaks last when

disconnected or plugged in)

PART VI

The service manual will assist you in properly placing the ice maker in the service

test mode for testing the ice maker functions.

the ice maker. Is the ice maker installed properly? The voltage at the wall receptacle

and the ice maker receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts during a load on the

circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

to the refrigerator/freezer. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle.

Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or at the circuit breaker panel. Turn off

the electricity.

maker. Remove the screws that secure the ice maker to the wall of the freezer (see

Figure 27-18). Next, unplug the ice maker from the receptacle, and remove the ice

maker (see Figure 27-19a). Now press the retaining tab, and pull the wiring harness

from the ice maker head (see Figure 27-19b). Insert a flat-blade screwdriver between

the shutoff arm and the white elongated hole on the ice maker head (see Figure 27-20).

Remove the shutoff arm by prying the arm out of the ice maker head. Pry off the ice

maker cover (see Figure 27-21) with a coin or a screwdriver. This will expose the ice

maker module. To remove the ice maker module, remove the three screws (see

Figure 27-22), and pull the module out of the ice maker head. Inspect the linkage, the

cam follower, and the switch contacts. Next, remove the two screws that secure the ice

maker head to the mold (Figure 27-24). Separate the ice maker head from the mold

assembly, and you will see the thermostat on the mold side of the ice maker head.

out the retaining clips (Figure 27-25). Remove the thermostat.

Screws

disassembly, and reassemble the ice maker. Be sure that you properly index the pins

on the thermostat. Before you assemble the ice maker head to the mold assembly,

you must apply new thermal bonding material to the thermostat. This will allow

the thermostat to make better contact with the ice maker mold. Reinstall the ice

maker in the freezer, and test.

Type-1 Ice Maker: Mold and Heater Assembly

The ice maker mold and heater assembly is attached to the ice maker head. This component

is replaced as one unit.

The typical complaints associated with failure of the ice maker mold and heater

assembly are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

temperature in the freezer. It will be helpful if you can locate the actual service manual

for the ice maker model you are working on to properly diagnose the ice maker.

The service manual will assist you in properly placing the ice maker in the service

test mode for testing the ice maker functions.

the ice maker. Is the ice maker installed properly? The voltage at the wall receptacle

and the ice maker receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts during a load on the

circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

to the refrigerator/freezer. This can be done by pulling the plug from the receptacle.

Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or circuit breaker panel. Turn off the

electricity.

Thermostat

Retaining clips

FIGURE 27-25

Removing the

retaining clips with a

pair of needle nose

pliers.

PART VI

ice maker. Remove the screws that secure the ice maker to the wall of the freezer

(see Figure 27-18). Next, unplug the ice maker from the receptacle, and remove the

ice maker (see Figure 27-19a). Now press the retaining tab, and pull the wiring

harness from the ice maker head (see Figure 27-19b).

Insert a flat-blade screwdriver between the shutoff arm and the white elongated

hole on the ice maker head (see Figure 27-20). Remove the shutoff arm by prying it

out of the ice maker head. Pry off the ice maker cover (see Figure 27-21) with a coin

or screwdriver. Insert a Phillips screwdriver into the access ports in the module

(Figure 27-26) to loosen the screws. Separate the ice maker head assembly from the

mold assembly. Also remove the ejector, the fill cup, the stripper, and the shutoff

arm (see Figure 27-8). Do not remove the heater; the heater and mold come as a

complete assembly.

just reverse the order of disassembly, and reassemble. When assembling the ice

maker, apply a thin film of silicone grease to the end of the ejector that goes into the

fill cup. This will prevent the ejector from freezing to the fill cup. Also apply a thin

film of silicone grease to the other end of the ejector. Before installing the stripper,

apply a heavy film of silicone grease to the top surface of the mold that is covered

by the stripper. This will prevent the water from wicking over the ice maker mold

every time it cycles. Before you assemble the ice maker head to the mold assembly,

you must apply new thermal bonding material to the thermostat. This will allow

the thermostat to make better contact with the ice maker mold. Reinstall the ice

maker in the freezer, and test it.

Mold attachment

screw access ports (2)

Shutoff

arm

access ports.

Water Valve

The water valve controls the flow of water into the ice maker, and is solenoid-operated and

located in the rear of the refrigerator/freezer. When it is energized, water in the supply line

will pass through the valve body and into the ice maker.

The typical complaints associated with failure of the water valve are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

temperature in the freezer. It will be helpful if you can locate the actual service manual

for the ice maker model you are working on to properly diagnose the ice maker.

The service manual will assist you in properly placing the ice maker in the service

test mode for testing the ice maker functions.

the ice maker. Is the ice maker installed properly? Check the water supply to the

water valve. The voltage at the wall receptacle and the ice maker receptacle is

between 108 volts and 132 volts during a load on the circuit. Do you have the

correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

electricity to the refrigerator/freezer. This can be done by pulling the plug from the

receptacle. Or disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel or circuit breaker panel.

Turn off the electricity.

away from the wall. Remove the back access panel. Shut off the water supply to the

ice maker.

remove the screws from the water valve bracket that secure the valve to the cabinet

(Figure 27-27). Next, remove the ice maker fill line. Finally, disconnect the wiring

harness from the solenoid coil of the valve.

probes on the solenoid coil terminals (Figure 27-28). The meter should show

resistance between 200 and 500 ohms. If not, replace the water valve. If you

determine that the water valve is good but there is little water flow through the

valve, inspect the inlet screen. If this screen is filled with debris, it must be cleaned

PART VI

out. To accomplish this, use a small flat-blade screwdriver and pry out the screen

(Figure 27-29). Then wash out the screen, making sure that all of the debris is

removed. After cleaning out the debris, reinstall the screen, and test the water valve.

procedure, and reassemble. Also reconnect the ground wire from the water valve

bracket to the refrigerator/freezer cabinet. Secure the water supply line to the cabinet.

This will prevent the supply line from leaking when the refrigerator/freezer is pushed

back against the wall. Check for water leaks before you push the refrigerator/freezer

back against the wall. Also inspect the fill tubing for any cracks, etc. (Figure 27-30).

Water Fill Valve Adjustment

The average water fill for a type-1 ice maker is 140 cc. This type of ice maker will produce eight

cubes per harvest. If the technician needs to adjust the fill adjustment screw, which is located

on the side of the ice maker head (Figure 27-31), turning the fill adjustment screw clockwise

decreases the fill amount and decreases the cycle time slightly; turning the fill adjustment

screw counterclockwise increases the fill amount and increases the cycle time slightly.

By adjusting the water fill to the ice maker you can increase or decrease the amount of

water in the mold by:

Valve

ports

Bracket

Tube

sleeves

Solenoid

terminals

the outlet line. Disconnect the wiring harness from

the solenoid coil.

resistance.

Screen

Fill tube

grommet

Clamp

Fill

tubing

Wiring harness

Compression

nut

with warm water and soap.

tubing. Check the clamp and

compression nuts for leaks.

The factory presets the adjustment. Before making adjustments check the water supply and type of

shutoff valve irst.

Adjustment

screw

Fill adjustment is

7.5 seconds

of ll time

Counterclockwise

Clockwise

when small

hole is centered in

the larger hole.

PART VI

Ice maker cycle times will vary depending on the type of refrigerator or freezer in the

consumer’s home (side-by-side versus top-mount or bottom mount). Cycle times vary

between 2 and 2½ hours and can produce up to 96 ice cubes within a 24-hour period.

Type-2 Ice Maker: Head and Tray

The typical complaints associated with failure of the type-2 ice maker head are:

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

temperature in the freezer. It will be helpful if you can locate the actual service

manual for the ice maker model you are working on to properly diagnose the ice

maker. The service manual will assist you in properly placing the ice maker in

the service test mode for testing the ice maker functions.

the ice maker. Is the ice maker installed properly? The voltage at the wall receptacle

and the ice maker receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts during a load on the

circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

electricity to the refrigerator/freezer. This can be done by pulling the plug from the

receptacle. Another way to disconnect the electricity is at the fuse panel or circuit

breaker panel. Turn off the electricity.

Remove the screws that secure the ice maker to the wall of the freezer. Next, unplug

the ice maker from the receptacle and remove the ice maker.

and determining that you must replace the ice maker head assembly, it’s time to

disassemble it. First, remove the retaining clip from the end of the tray, and then

slide the tray off the ice maker drive shaft (Figure 27-32). Next, remove the fill cup

and screw. On the back of the ice maker head is a clamp that holds the tray drive

shaft in place; remove it. Pull the shaft out of the ice maker head. Then place a flatblade

screwdriver behind the shutoff arm, and pry it loose (Figure 27-33).

order of disassembly, and reassemble. When replacing a defective ice maker head,

only replace it with an exact replacement with the same amount of cycle operation

time. Reinstall the ice maker in the freezer, and test.

Type-2 Ice Maker Tray

The typical complaints associated with failure of the type-2 ice maker tray are:

Fill cup

Tray drive shaft

Ice maker head

Ice maker head

Retaining clip

Shutoff arm

FIGURE 27-33

Gently pry off the

shutoff arm.

FIGURE 27-32

Always reinstall the

ice cube tray in the

same position as

when it was removed.

If the ice tray is

installed upside down,

water will flood the ice

bucket every time the

ice maker cycles.

PART VI

To handle these problems, perform the following steps:

temperature in the freezer. It will be helpful if you can locate the actual service manual

for the ice maker model you are working on to properly diagnose the ice maker.

The service manual will assist you in properly placing the ice maker in the service

test mode for testing the ice maker functions.

the ice maker. Is the ice maker installed properly? The voltage at the wall receptacle

and the ice maker receptacle is between 108 volts and 132 volts during a load on the

circuit. Do you have the correct polarity? (See Chapter 6.)

from the end of the tray, and then slide the tray off the ice maker drive shaft (see

Figure 27-32).

procedure, and reassemble. Always reinstall the tray in the same position as that

from which it was removed for proper operation. Test the ice maker. Let